Darra Goldstein's Global Gastronomical Tour

by Sarah Henry on April 7, 2010 · 18 comments

in civil eats,food books,food events,food politics,global cuisine

I was having a little pity party last week. I was the host and only guest.

Minor surgery left me laid up. So I spent another Spring Break having a staycation; plans for a road trip got nixed at the 11th hour when it was clear that the recovery was going to take a little longer than expected.

(You know when you’re on a hiking trail and the sign says: Allow four hours for this walk. And you think: “I’ll do it in two hours tops.” That was my mind-set on post-op healing estimates. Turns out, where incisions and anesthesia are concerned, such an approach isn’t recommended. You only set yourself up for disappointment.)

How to get myself out of misery mode? A lecture at the University of California, Berkeley by Gastronomica editor in chief Darra Goldstein was just the ticket I needed to transport me away from my aches and pains and into the world of food and ideas.

Goldstein, in town to attend a couple of Gastronomica-related events timed for the publication’s 10th anniversary, was new to me, as was the journal she founded.

Published quarterly by UC Press, the elegant (and exxy, at $13 a pop) magazine melds food and culture in an eclectic mix of scholarly essays, fiction, poetry, and arresting visuals.

This latest issue includes a provocative piece on the dearth of great women chefs, a forum on food porn, photos of pristine Portuguese pastries, a discussion of chocolate and terroir, a story on Sudenese cuisine, a moving memoir about one man’s mother and her white diet, and an essay on poet Sylvia Plath’s passion for food. And there’s still more.

Gastronomica is a place, says Goldstein, to examine both the deeper and darker sides of food, and use food for thought to provoke readers to seriously contemplate what goes on their plate. But it’s not heavy handed: Goldstein knows how to play and have fun with her food too.

In the past the journal has covered parrot-eating in the Renaissance, the cultural ramifications of the Atkins diet, genetically modified foods in Zambia, the ethics of eating apes, and the eating habits of hefty sumo wrestlers in Japan. Quirky, even eccentric, stuff.

When Goldstein isn’t polishing manuscripts she teaches Russian history at Williams College in Massachusetts. She’s lived in Russia, studied in Helsinki, and traveled all over the globe pursuing her professorial and personal inquiry into food. Oh, and she’s written four cookbooks, won awards, and researched the culinary origins of cutlery, too.

My colleague Dianne Jacob, who first brought this discussion to my attention, says she wants to BE Darra Goldstein. (You can find her take on the talk here, pink bathrobe and all. Pink? Not what I would have pictured.)

I’d settle with having Darra as a brilliant best friend. Over the course of a couple of hours she covered a lot of ground, geographically and intellectually, regarding food, culture, and identity, in conversation with sociology professor Barry Glassner, author of The Gospel of Food: Why We Should Stop Worrying and Enjoy What We Eat.

What I loved most, and helped me see beyond my own front door, was Goldstein’s take on topics where I felt sure I knew what she was going to say and yet, each and every time, she surprised me.

A half-dozen highlights:

  • Eating at the table, something both vital and universal to all of us regardless of color, creed, or religion, would seem a simple way to forge friendly ties among uneasy ethnic communities. Right? Not necessarily so, given Goldstein’s experience editing Culinary Cultures of Europe, which features writers from 45 countries weighing in on how food might encourage tolerance and diversity, coupled with her hands-on involvement in Israel on a meal-making project designed to promote tolerance between Israelis and Palestinians. Who knew that the origins of the falafel — a delicious fast food sold the world over — could be so complex and foment so much distrust? Is this chickpea patty an Arab or Israeli creation? As Goldstein tells it, what one person may see as culinary adoption or assimilation another may view as cultural appropriation.
  • Watching McDonald’s set up shop in developing nations is always bad, yes? Hold that preconceived notion, cautions Goldstein. In Russia before Macca’s showed up restaurant culture was dirty, dismal, virtually non-existent, and the service was surly. The much-maligned American conglomerate created farms to supply their Soviet burger joints. It was good for the economy. Russians flocked to the Golden Arches for decent food, served in a friendly, clean, and efficient fashion. Not long after, national pride saw Russia spawn some fast food shacks of their own.
  • Everyone should jump on the locavore bandwagon, natch? Local food sourcing is a fine flag for Californians to fly, given our super long growing season, but Goldstein lives in the New England Berkshires. If she chose the close-to-home-only route she’d be living on rutabagas and turnips all winter long.
  • Globally, the locavore movement can have a devastating impact on economies dependent on agricultural exports. Take Georgia, a nation the food scholar knows well, since she lived there for several years. When Russia placed a ban on Georgian food imports the Georgian GNP dropped a devastating 75 percent, Goldstein says. Further, she argues, locavorism can be seen as an extreme form of fear-driven reverse NIMBYism, and speaks to Americans’ compulsion for safety and security around what they eat, along with other aspects of life.
  • The famous French saying, tell me what you eat, and I’ll tell you what you are, penned by Anthelme Brillat-Savarin in 1825, may sound trite today, but there’s truth to it as well. Choosing vegetarianism is often an individual’s first significant assertion of independence, offers Goldstein by way of example. (So my mum was right. But what will my son do come adolescence: Start eating steak?)
  • In terms of cultural connections, language is lost long before the last vestiges of food ways are forgotten in an ethnic group, so closely is eating tied to identity.

There was talk, too, of Adam Gopnik’s recent New Yorker piece on the French phenomenon Le Fooding, which Gopnik didn’t seem to understand so it was a bit lost on me (I read the article post event). Still, it was a fascinating peek into the French food world’s psyche nonetheless.

Also a nod to Corby Kummer’s story in The Atlantic, The Great Grocery Smackdown, which asks whether — gasp! — Walmart and not Whole Foods can save the small farm and make Americans healthy. Can you guess what conclusions he comes to?

Quite a lot to digest during a scant two hours, over lunch, no less.

I left the event with a full belly and brain, grateful to live in this Gown Town, and thankful to Goldstein for taking me on an international, educational, epicurean tour, just five minutes from home.

Photo of Darra Goldstein by Kevin Kennefick

This post also appears on Civil Eats.

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{ 15 comments… read them below or add one }

Donna Hull April 8, 2010 at 6:37 am

Thanks for sharing an informative lecture by Darra Goldstein. She dispelled a few myths. I enjoyed her practicality regarding food. Hope you’re feeling well enough for that road trip soon.


Sarah Henry April 8, 2010 at 7:12 am

Thanks, Donna. When I’m up for a travel adventure I’ll be sure to ask you for tips.

As for Darra Goldstein, you’re right, her matter-of-factness combined with her scholarly sensibility is appealing.


Alexandra April 8, 2010 at 8:05 am

Fascinating stuff! Wow, thanks for this information. I plan to subscribe, as this is definitely great reading for the type of person who comes to our green B&B.


Sarah Henry April 8, 2010 at 10:47 am

Alexandra, Gastronomica is just the sort of journal you’d want to curl up with at a B&B. And you should check out the upcoming Gastronomica Reader, a gorgeous, timeless, coffee-table type book.


Nani Steele April 8, 2010 at 10:54 am

Great sum up Sarah!! Darra’s thoughts on food were quite refreshing, if not, daring in light of where she was. It’s quite easy to be local from our California soap-box, no doubt-and lucky we are, for that reason alone. A quick wander through Berkeley Bowl this morning was a precious reminder of that fact.


Sarah Henry April 8, 2010 at 2:21 pm

Thanks, Nani. Yes we are spoiled for seasonal produce all year round out here.


Sheryl Kraft April 8, 2010 at 6:08 pm

Quite an interesting woman. And the magazine sounds wonderful (beautiful cover photos); not many people examine food from so many artful perspectives.


Sarah Henry April 8, 2010 at 6:44 pm

It is visually very engaging, that’s for sure.


marthaandme April 9, 2010 at 7:34 am

Thanks for sharing all of this. I hope you’re feeling better!


The Writer's [Inner] Journey April 13, 2010 at 11:31 am

I do not claim to know much about food writing at all, but I have to say that the covers of those magazines are absolutely stunning and visually so interesting.

Thanks for the info here – I enjoyed.



Sarah Henry April 15, 2010 at 11:39 am

I know, Meredith, the visuals are so striking.


Adair@Lentil Breakdown April 13, 2010 at 12:01 pm

I saw her speak last night in a panel discussion at the Getty Center
in L.A. about food photography (historical photography). She seemed
hostile to food bloggers, calling us “narcissistic,” and clearly
disapproved of people taking photos of their food at the table. Am
curious to know what your opinion might have been of her last night.


Sarah Henry April 13, 2010 at 12:14 pm

Thanks for your insights, Lentil Breakdown. The subject of blogging did not come up at the event I attended. Nor the issue of happy snapping at the table. I assume she means in public, right?

As for us “narcissistic” bloggers, I think of myself as an old-school journalist who’s experimenting with a new mode of communication, given the current economic realities for those of us who make our livings as freelance writers.

But I had to laugh. I don’t always prattle on about myself to introduce a post — as I did in this instance — so I’ve given Goldstein plenty of fuel for her fire. And I even emailed the post to her, an old-fashioned reporter courtesy, but perhaps it could be misinterpreted as further evidence of my self-serving ways.


Adair@Lentil Breakdown April 13, 2010 at 1:15 pm

Same for me. As an ad copywriter, I am trying to segue into a
different sector that I am more passionate about than what I am
currently writing about for my day job. But you could also call any
author that writes about their own experiences as narcissistic. It
seems to me that people are only narcissistic if they have no talent
and still feel that people will be interested in their inept
exhibitionism or lack of originality. : )


Nurit - 1 family. friendly. food. April 13, 2010 at 7:35 pm

aaaah, wish I could have been there…


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